Lawn Care in Plymouth, Maple Grove, Corcoran, Medina, MN

8/21/2024

Golden Crown

Read Now

West Metro Lawn & Snow offers an industry-leading turf health program. Our 7-step Fertilization & Weed Control Program supports your lawn’s health with micro-nutrients, while fighting off weeds and undesirable grasses.

During Fall, Round 7 of our program takes place - which is a combination of a total broadleaf weed control and a Rapid Green liquid fertilizer. The Rapid Green liquid fertilizer contains, amongst other things, a robust liquid nitrogen boost which immediately assists in strengthening roots and winterizing turf. The nitrogen helps to restore your lawn’s carbohydrates, ensuring it has adequate nutrients to last through the colder winter months.

When products with increased levels of nitrogen are sprayed, it can sometimes cause temporary yellow or brown tips “Golden Crown”. Rest assured, this does NOT occur because of over-application. Instead, your lawn is simply NOT used to products with increased levels of nitrogen!

When you next mow your lawn, you will cut off the tips and the turf will be lush and deep green due to the Nitrogen! To assist in recovery, we recommend continuing to follow healthy lawn care practices. This includes, but is not limited to, watering deeply but infrequently and mowing high. We encourage you to trust the process and know that the nitrogen boost in Round 7 will provide your lawn with the nutrients it needs to survive the upcoming Minnesota winter!

8/13/2024

Driveway Prep: Snow Removal

Read Now

Hi, West Metro Snow clients!

As the snow prepares to fly, please see the helpful guide below on how to prep your driveway for Snow Removal services.

As always, please let us know if you have any questions or concerns.

8/7/2024

Snow Stakes vs. Driveway Markers (and How to Stake Your Driveway)

Read Now

Snow Stakes vs. Driveway Markers

Snow stakes are orange driveway markers (either plastic or fiberglass) that are used in winter to help identify the edges of driveways and roadways. These snow stakes make it easier for homeowners, visitors, and snowplow operators to see where the driveway or roadway is located, preventing damage to lawns, gardens, and other landscaping features. Snow stakes are required along driveways in order to receive service and need to be installed by either the homeowner or West Metro prior to the snow season.

West Metro Driveway Markers are 4’ tall white and green markers labeled with our business name and logo. These markers allow our drivers to easily locate properties at night and in snowy conditions with limited visibility. These markers have dramatically improved our response time. Just like snow stakes, West Metro Driveway Markers are required in order to receive service.

How to Properly Install Your Snow Stakes

If a homeowner chooses to install snow stakes, there are several guidelines which should be followed:

Snow stakes should be placed 5 to 10 feet apart from each other along the edge of the driveway, with the stake closest to the street installed on the corner where the driveway meets the street.
Snow stakes should be placed at every pivot/turn of the driveway, as well as corners of sidewalks.
At least 3 snow stakes should be placed along each side of the driveway.
Snow stakes should be at least 32” tall to ensure visibility.
Snow stakes should be placed at least 6” in the ground to ensure sturdiness.

Tip: Install stakes before the ground freezes for easier installation.

Hire West Metro to Install Your Snow Stakes

If you hire West Metro to install your snow stakes, we replace broken, missing, or damaged snow stakes for free.
We guarantee to have your snow stakes installed prior to the first serviceable snowfall.
We collect our snow stakes at the end of winter.
We use both Fiberglass and Rebounding Plastic snow stakes.
- 48” heavy duty Fiberglass stakes along the road (to withstand the city plow’s snow wake)
- 32” Plastic Rebounding stakes along your driveway’s edge (which rebound if driven over and won’t scratch car doors).
- Watch a video HERE of our Plastic Rebounding Snow Stakes in action!

7/2/2024

Common Lawn Diseases

Read Now

Common Lawn Diseases in Minnesota

Lawn diseases can be hard to identify, particularly if you're not aware of the symptoms. Recognizing the signs early can help you prevent more extensive damage to your lawn. Here is a list of the most common lawn diseases found in Minnesota.

Ascochyta Leaf Blight
Ascochyta Leaf Blight is a stress-induced fungal disease found in lawns. It causes straw-like and bleached irregular patches in the grass that appear rapidly, oftentimes overnight. If you inspect infected blades of grass, you will notice that they look dead on the top and in the middle but are still green near the root. It is possible that you may also notice very small, dark brown spots on the blades. It is very uncommon for roots to be affected. (Photo: Note that the lawn was infected by Ascochyta Leaf Blight and subsequently spread after a mower operated on the lawn, causing the appearance of "tracks").

Dollar Spot
Dollar Spots are an invasive fungus that present as sunken patches which are very small and circular. Most frequently, the spots are the size of a silver dollar but can reach up to six inches in diameter on taller turf. Like many other lawn diseases, the Dollar Spots are straw-colored. However, they can initially appear as brown and are often found in clusters. As the clusters grow, they can become irregular patches and less circular shaped.

Brown Patch
Brown Patch is an invasive fungus that also causes patches of brownish-yellow grass (however, these patches differ from Dollar Spot in that they are irregular shaped and much larger). These patches often start around six inches in diameter but have been known to easily grow to multiple feet in diameter (sometimes even more than 10 feet). Brown Patch most commonly occurs in higher temperatures and higher humidity levels.

Leaf Spot
Leaf Spot presents as circular brown lesions on blades of grass. Grass infected by Leaf Spot will begin to appear yellowish and start to wilt, which often causes homeowners to incorrectly assume that their lawn is affected by drought stress. Subsequently, homeowners will over-water their lawn causing the disease to spread further. Unfortunately, Leaf Spot often spreads to the root of your grass and can kill portions of your lawn. It thrives in warmer temperatures and requires high levels of moisture to survive.

Necrotic Ring Spot
Necrotic Ring Spot initially presents as light green patches in lawns that range in size from a few inches to multiple feet in diameter. These patches can be spread throughout the yard or be centralized to a small portion. At first glance, this lawn disease can be difficult to distinguish from other patch diseases. However, these patches gradually develop into bronze or straw-colored rings, with healthy, green grass in the center. This often creates a “donut” or “frog-eye” appearance.

Red Thread
Red Thread is a fungal lawn disease that is easily identifiable by its pinkish-red thread-like strands of fungal mycelium. This lawn disease often develops during sustained periods of humid or rainy weather, and flourishes in temperatures between 40 degrees to 80 degrees. Red Thread can weaken your lawn and cause it to be more susceptible to other diseases, but it will not kill your lawn. Oftentimes, the grass affected by this condition will recover in a few weeks time.

Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew is a fungus that causes turf to appear as though it was dusted with flour, giving infected turf a “powdery” appearance. This lawn fungus can occur on a vast variety of grass species, and thrives in elevated humidity, shaded-areas, and areas with limited air circulation. Powdery Mildew can also affect healthy plants (such as flowers, vegetables, and fruits). Unfortunately, severely infected grass will eventually turn yellow/brown and begin to die.

Pythium Blight
Pythium Blight presents as small dark patches in turf (often appearing black, orange, or purple in color). The small patches typically grow into much larger, irregular areas (and are often found on golf courses). Pythium Blight spreads quickly in ideal conditions: high temperatures, high moisture, and decreased air movement. This lawn disease is often called “grease spot”, as infected areas are often greasy in appearance. Unfortunately, like many other turf diseases, this can spread rapidly by being tracked by lawn equipment.

Rust Disease
Rust Disease is easily identifiable because it causes an orange or rusty-colored powdery substance on blades of grass. The infected turf initially appears to have small, yellow spots but the spots quickly rupture into the powdery “rusty” residue. Unfortunately, this lawn disease spreads easily and often sticks to shoes, pets, and lawn equipment. Rust Disease can occur anytime through Spring and Fall - and with all lawn fungi, thrives in wet and humid environments.

Snow Mold
Snow Mold is a common fungal lawn disease that forms when snow or wet leaves cover turf for an extended period of time. The damage is typically noticed by homeowners in the Spring after the snow begins to melt. Snow Mold (both Pink and Gray) have a fuzzy, web-like appearance, typically in circles ranging from a few inches to a few feet in diameter. The grass in these affected patches will typically become matted down and straw-colored.

How to Prevent

At West Metro Lawn and Snow, we support a natural approach to correcting these common lawn diseases. This is because fungicide treatments kill both the bad and the good bacteria in your lawn, leaving your lawn far more susceptible for the fungal issues to reoccur in the future.

Here are a few of our top recommendations on how to help your turf fight back:

Mow Regularly (and Correctly). Ensure that your lawn is being mowed regularly and at the appropriate height. Grass that is allowed to grow too tall (or that is cut too short) is more susceptible to lawn fungus.
Water Deeply but Infrequently. Water your lawn deeply but less frequently. This encourages deep root growth, making your grass more resilient to fighting off fungus and disease. In addition, be sure to water in the early morning (versus evening - as moist conditions overnight can promote the development of fungal disease).
Fertilize Regularly. Regularly fertilizing your lawn will help to promote healthy turf growth and a lawn that is less likely to develop lawn fungus and disease throughout the Green Season.

6/25/2024

Deterring Mosquitoes in Your Yard

Read Now

Every year in Minnesota, homeowners spend way too much time fighting a never-ending battle against annoying mosquitoes in their yard.

The team at West Metro Lawn & Snow is frequently asked “how can we deter all these mosquitoes?!” First and foremost, we always encourage our clients to sign up for our six-round Mosquito Control Program - which is a barrier spray treatment for mosquitoes (and ticks, too)! We have received awesome feedback about the success of this program!

Beyond that, our top suggestions to our clients to fight against mosquitoes include the following:

Eliminate Standing Water
Did you know that standing water serves as the breeding ground for mosquitoes? We strongly encourage clients to take a look around their yard to find any standing water that may be hiding. Common locations for standing water include water bowls for pets, bird baths, and children’s pools and water tables. Eliminating standing water when possible will prevent female mosquitoes from laying their eggs.

Maintain a Debris-Free Yard
It is no secret that mosquitoes (and ticks) commonly hangout in tall grasses, untrimmed shrubs, woodpiles, and weeds. Ensuring that your grass is regularly cut, shrubs are appropriately trimmed, and weeds are treated during the green season will eliminate the favorite hangouts of those pesky mosquitoes!

Clean Your Gutters
This tip ties in very closely with the last two! Gutters that are full of twigs, leaves, dirt and other debris often turn into the perfect warm, wet habitat for mosquitoes. We often remind customers that clogged gutters equal standing water (and ultimately the perfect spot for female mosquitoes to lay eggs)! Keep your gutters clean and clear!

Purchase Mosquito-Repelling Plants
Lastly, some of our clients find it helpful to introduce mosquito-repelling plants into their yards and gardens. Some of the most commonly known mosquito-repelling plants include citronella grass, lavender, marigolds, basil, rosemary, and peppermint. These plants emit smells that mosquitoes simply do not like! Ultimately, this is another suggestion that may make your summer more peaceful this year.

6/4/2024

Poor Soil Quality (New Construction Homes)

Read Now

We hear the following complaint from new clients time and time again - “we recently built a home in the West Metro and the soil quality is so BAD!”

New construction projects frequently disrupt soil, resulting in compaction, nutrient depletion, and diminished water absorption. The use of heavy equipment and machinery during construction compresses soil particles, reducing pore space. Consequently, air, water, and nutrients struggle to penetrate the soil, hindering plant growth and adversely affecting plants and lawns.

So, what can be done to address the poor soil quality at your new construction home? Several steps can be taken:

Aerate the Soil: Use tools or machines like lawn aerators to create small holes in the soil. This helps to break up compacted soil, allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate more easily.
Add Organic Matter: Incorporate compost, manure, or other organic materials into the soil. This improves soil structure, increases nutrient content, and enhances water retention.
Topsoil Application: Apply a layer of high-quality topsoil over the compacted soil. This can provide a better growing medium for plants and help to establish a healthier lawn or garden.
Use Soil Amendments: Add soil conditioners such as gypsum to improve soil structure and reduce compaction. Lime can be added to adjust soil pH if necessary.
Plant Cover Crops: Sow cover crops such as clover, rye, or alfalfa. These plants can help break up compacted soil, add organic matter, and improve soil fertility.
Mulching: Apply mulch around plants to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce soil compaction.
Proper Watering Techniques: Use efficient watering methods, such as drip irrigation, to avoid waterlogging and further compaction.
Avoid Heavy Traffic: Minimize the movement of heavy machinery and vehicles over the soil to prevent further compaction.
Erosion Control: Implement erosion control measures like silt fences, straw bales, or retaining walls to prevent soil erosion and loss of nutrients.
Soil Testing: Conduct soil tests to determine the specific nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. This information can guide appropriate fertilization and amendment strategies.

By taking these steps, you can significantly improve soil conditions in new construction areas, promoting healthier plant growth and a more sustainable landscape.

5/15/2024

Seed? Or Sod?

Read Now

Deciding between seeding and sodding your lawn depends on your specific needs and circumstances. Here are the main considerations for each method:

Seeding
Advantages:

Cost-Effective: Seeding is generally much cheaper than sodding.
Variety: There’s a wider selection of grass types available for seeding, allowing you to choose one best suited to your climate and soil.
Adaptability: Grass grown from seed tends to establish deeper root systems, making it more adaptable and resilient in the long term.

Disadvantages:

Time: It takes longer for a seeded lawn to become fully established and usable.
Maintenance: Newly seeded lawns require careful watering and protection from erosion, birds, and weeds.
Seasonal Limitations: Seeding is best done in certain seasons (spring or fall), limiting your timing options.

Sodding
Advantages:

Instant Results: Sod provides an immediate green lawn and can be used in a relatively short period.
Erosion Control: It effectively prevents soil erosion right after installation.
Fewer Weeds: Sod is usually weed-free initially, giving you a clean start.

Disadvantages:

Cost: Sod is more expensive than seed, both in terms of material and installation.
Limited Grass Choices: Fewer varieties are available compared to seeding, which might limit your options.
Maintenance: Sod still requires regular watering and care until it establishes, though less intensively than seeding.

Choosing the Right Method

Budget: If budget is a primary concern, seeding is the better option.
Timeframe: If you need an instant lawn, sodding is the way to go.
Lawn Condition: For a new lawn with bare soil, either method can work, but for patching an existing lawn, seeding might be more practical.
Season: If you’re outside the ideal seeding seasons (spring or fall), sodding can be done almost any time during the growing season.

Ultimately, the choice between seeding and sodding depends on your priorities regarding cost, time, maintenance, and the specific conditions of your lawn.

5/7/2024

Landscape Bed Weed Control

Read Now

Landscape bed weeds are unwanted plants that grow within landscaped areas, such as flower beds, garden borders, or other cultivated areas. These pesky weeds can compete with desired plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight, and detract from the overall aesthetic appeal of the landscape. Common landscape bed weeds include broadleaf weeds like dandelions and plantain, grassy weeds like crabgrass, and various other invasive species.

Controlling your landscape bed weeds throughout the green season is vital! Not only can they affect the health of your desired plants, aesthetically impact your garden, and reduce your property’s value - they also harbor pests and disease. Furthermore, keeping weeds out of your landscape beds keeps them out of your lawn!

Controlling these weeds often involves methods such as hand-pulling, mulching, herbicide application, or a combination of techniques. At West Metro Lawn & Snow, we offer a 4-Round Landscape Bed Weed Control Package. Round 1 is a Pre-Emergent Application (meaning that it kills weeds before they germinate). Rounds 2 through 4 are Post-Emergent Applications which kill on contact any weeds that may have already germinated before Round 1. Request an estimate online today!

4/3/2024

Japanese Beetles

Read Now

Japanese beetles are a highly invasive species of beetle native to Japan, as their name suggests. They were first discovered in the United States in 1916, having likely been introduced accidentally through imported plant material. Since then, they have become a significant pest in many parts of Minnesota.

Japanese beetles are known for their distinctive metallic green bodies with coppery-brown wing covers. These beetles feed on a wide variety of plants, both as adults and as larvae. As larvae, they are known as white grubs and live in the soil, feeding on grassroots, which can cause damage to lawns and agricultural crops. As adults, they feed on the foliage, flowers, and fruits of over 300 different plant species.

Their feeding behavior can cause significant damage to plants, including skeletonizing leaves, defoliation, and ultimately weakening or killing the plant if infestations are severe enough.

Controlling Japanese beetles can be challenging, as they have few natural predators in Minnesota and are highly mobile, capable of flying several miles in search of food and suitable egg-laying sites. Various methods are used to control Japanese beetles, including chemical pesticides, biological controls (such as predatory insects or pathogens), and cultural practices like handpicking beetles off plants.

At West Metro Lawn & Snow, we offer two solid options to fight against this invasive species in your yard. Our Grub Control application kills Japanese beetles in their larvae state and our Mosquito Control Program kills adult Japanese beetles. Request an estimate online today!

4/3/2024

Grass Seed: Buyer Beware!

Read Now

As we approach Core Aeration and Overseeding season, we want to take this opportunity to educate our clients and potential clients on seed - and why good seed costs more! West Metro Lawn & Snow always urges others to read the label on their seed bag - because not all grass seed is created equal!

Below, let's compare a Contractors Mix from Menards versus the seed that West Metro Lawn & Snow uses.

Menards Seed: Contractors Mix

This 40-pound bag was being marketed at the Menards checkout for $70.00.
Ingredient Tag
- 46% of the material in the bag is seed (very low)
- 35% is perennial seed (very low)
- 80% germinate rate (very low)
Summary: Very bad seed. However, it is the best-selling seed on the shelf at Menards.

West Metro Lawn & Snow's Seed

We stock 3-4 different types of seed and apply the appropriate seed to each individual lawn.
Ingredient Tag
- 98.5% of the material in the bag is seed (very high)
- 100% is perennial seed (perennial means that it will grow again next year, which is very important)
- 86% germinate rate (high)

Summary: Incredible Seed! Which will yield much better results!

<<Previous

Golden Crown

Driveway Prep: Snow Removal

Snow Stakes vs. Driveway Markers (and How to Stake Your Driveway)

Common Lawn Diseases

Common Lawn Diseases in Minnesota

How to Prevent

Deterring Mosquitoes in Your Yard

Poor Soil Quality (New Construction Homes)

Seed? Or Sod?

Landscape Bed Weed Control

Japanese Beetles

Grass Seed: Buyer Beware!

Chris Halvorson

Archives

Categories